Ask why a bedroom window streams with water every morning and the answer is usually that the house has been made more airtight without anybody thinking about where the air is meant to come in. Across west London the same sequence has played out in terraces, semis and converted flats alike: draughty timber frames replaced with sealed units, chimneys blocked up, floors covered, gaps filled. Each change was sensible on its own. Together they removed every route by which fresh air entered, and background ventilation has to be put back deliberately.
What background ventilation is for
A household generates a surprising volume of water vapour through breathing, cooking, washing and drying, and that moisture has to leave the building rather than condense on the coldest surfaces in it. Extract fans deal with the burst of moisture at source, but they can only remove air if replacement air can get in, which is why a fan in a completely sealed room runs hard and achieves very little. Background vents provide a small, controllable and permanent opening that works when nobody is thinking about it.
Fitting vents into an existing frame
A trickle vent is a slot cut through the top of a frame with a canopy outside and a closable grille inside. On a uPVC or aluminium frame the slot is routed or drilled through the section and deburred, taking care to stay within the frame and not to breach a drainage chamber or a reinforcement. On timber, the slot is cut and the exposed end grain sealed before the vent goes on, because untreated timber inside a wet slot is the fastest way to start rot. The free area of the vent is matched to the room, not chosen by what looks discreet.
Where a vent must not go
Sealed double-glazed units carry a warranty that is void if the frame is cut, so on a relatively new installation it is worth checking before a router comes anywhere near it. On a fire-rated door set nothing may be cut at all. In a conservation area or a listed building, altering an original window is a consent matter, and the alternative is a wall-mounted vent through the masonry or a passive unit in a reveal. Similar decisions arise constantly in the work described under odd jobs in Hammersmith.
Wall vents through solid masonry
Where the frames cannot be touched, a core-drilled vent through the wall does the same job. It is drilled with a slight fall to the outside so water runs away, sleeved through its full length, and fitted with a hit-and-miss grille inside and a weather louvre with an insect mesh outside. Position matters: high on the wall, away from the head of a bed, and clear of any flue or appliance terminal. On a cavity wall the sleeve must bridge the cavity completely rather than open into it.
The vents people close
Almost the most common finding on an inspection is that every vent in the house has been shut because of a draught or a whistle. A vent set too low, or one that faces the prevailing wind without a baffle, will be closed within a week, so the answer is usually to reposition or change the type rather than argue for leaving it open. Rooms where the vents are permanently closed are the rooms where the plaster darkens first, and once that has happened the surface needs proper treatment through our nearby specialists. Vents also want an insect mesh, because an open slot into a warm room attracts exactly the visitors handled by the Hammersmith branch.
Arranging an inspection and fitting
Work of this kind is charged on time, and a survey of the whole property is usually more valuable than fitting a single vent, because ventilation only works as a balanced system. Before the visit it helps to note which rooms suffer, whether the extract fans run and for how long, and how the property is heated. Frame type and glazing age are worth establishing, since they determine what can be cut. Post-refurbishment clearance is described under pest control cover across West London, and the full list of trades under the handyman service.